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Complete Guide To Measuring

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Wooden Laminate 


Put the unopened packs into the room to acclimatise for 48 hours. The flooring is thin enough to fit under most doors, but to check place a board on the underlay next to the door. If it won’t open, remove from its hinges and plane the bottom edge.

The new floor also needs to fit under the architrave. If necessary, saw the bottom of the architrave so that a board plus underlay can slide underneath.   Skirting boards do not need to be removed to fit flooring as the gaps around the edge of the room can be hidden by a matching self-adhesive cover strip or beading. However, if you wish to remove skirting boards to replace them over the gaps later, this should be done now.


Look to see which direction the light falls into the room. If possible, lay the boards so that the sunlight falls along their length.Polythene underlay must be used under the foam underlay on concrete floors or wherever there is any chance of moisture passing from the sub floor to the boards. Overlap sheets by at least 20cm (8") and take the edges up the wall by 2.5cm (1"). Any excess can be cut off later.

FloorsFoam underlay helps to reduce the sound of footsteps and levels slight unevenness. Roll the foam in the same direction and the new boards will be laid, a length at a time, making sure that the polythene flap is overlapped by the foam at the joints. Measure the width of the room and work out how many rows of boards the floor will contain. If the last row is less than 8cm (3") wide, begin by cutting the first row of boards so that they are approximately the same width as the last row.

Lay the first row of boards, from left to right, without gluing, with the groove facing the wall, leaving an expansion gap of 9mm around all edges (a pair of spacers). As all walls are slightly uneven and the boards must be kept straight, adjust the spacers to accommodate small differences in width. If your walls are very uneven you will need to cut the boards to follow the wall. Mark where to cut the boards by holding a pencil against a spacer and sliding it along the wall.

FloorsTo avoid damaging the surface, if using a handsaw the top of the board should face upwards when cutting, if using a jigsaw the bottom of the board should face upwards. Insert spacers every 40cm (16") between the wall and boards and at both ends of each row. To cut the board at the end of the row place it so that its tongue is touching the last board laid, mark the cutting line and saw.

Start the second row with the piece of board left from the first row. If it is shorter than 20cm (8") cut a new board. Lay the second and third rows without gluing and adjust as necessary so that the rows are straight. If all the joints meet properly then the floor has been laid straight. Boards should always be laid so that there is at least 20cm (8") between joints to maintain the strength of the floor.


When gluing, the first three rows are laid at the same time, as it is easier to keep the rows straight and quicker to lay your floor. The boards are laid in an overlapping pattern in the order shown in the diagram below. For boards in the first row, apply glue to the upper edge of the end groove only. Place the hitting block over the tongue and hammer to push the panels together. Never hit the tongue or groove directly. Immediately remove glue from the face of the boards with a cloth.

FloorsFor boards in the second and third rows glue the upper edge of the grooves along both sides and ends of the boards. Carefully tap the end then side joints together using the hitting block. Use the crowbar to tighten the last board in each row and finish with spacers. Lay the rest of the floor a row at a time.

The last row: The last row of boards will normally need to be cut down their length. Mark the cutting line by placing a board directly on top of the last row laid, groove facing you, with an off cut on top, tongue against the wall.


To fit around pipes: mark the position of the pipe on the board, allowing for the expansion gap. Measure the width of the pipe and drill or chisel a hole in the board (use a drill bit 18mm (3¼4") larger than the pipe to allow for the expansion gap). Cut a section from the board, lay the board around the pipe and glue back the sawn piece.   

FloorsFinishing: Remove all traces of dust from the floor. To cover the gap either peel the backing from the cover strips and attach, replace the skirting boards, ensuring that the floor can move freely underneath, or use a timber beading or moulding of your choice, fixing it to the skirting to allow the floor to move freely.

Where the floor meets carpet or linoleum use a threshold to bridge the height difference.

FloorsSTEP 5

Maintaining your floor: Flooring is a durable smooth surface and so needs a minimum of maintenance. To keep your floor looking its best:



Sweep or vacuum regularly and when necessary clean the floor with enhancer and floor cleaner and a damp, not wet, cloth.


Remove liquids from your floor as soon as possible.


Place effective doormats at external doors to remove dirt and grit.


Use felt pads on furniture and non-slip matting under rugs, where possible, to protect the surface.



Ever allow excess liquid to remain on the floor.


Drag furniture across the floor.


Use cleaners which contain wax, as they will dull the surface and could make it dangerous.


Use scouring pads to remove stains. Use cleaning agents that contain abrasives.


Most stains can be removed with household products.